Bob & Neals European Ride out May 2009

When you realise your favourite bike is 18 years old, do you think its time to replace it with a newer model. No! Take it for a 10 day 2,800 mile ride out through Spain, Andorra, France & Belgium and see what it can still do. So with Neal on his 12 year old Ducati 750 and me on my XV1100 Virago we set off. With only the Ferries and first nights hotel booked, the rest was take it as you find it, stopping on evening and looking for a small hotel wherever we happened to be

The first day must have been the longest ride at around 380 miles to Portsmouth for the Ferry. Unfortunately most of this was in pouring rain and although it was sunny in Portsmouth as we pulled up next to all the clean shiny Southern bikes ours certainly looked scruffy and hard ridden. Once on board we changed and left the gear hanging to dry and went for a well needed beer. Then it was a 24 hour trip to Santander, luckily the sea was calm and we enjoyed a pleasant trip even attending a whale watching lecture to pass the time. Then leaving the Ferry at 7:00 pm we road about 45 miles up into the mountains to the tiny village of Mentera. There we found our Internet hotel booking was a converted farmhouse in a fantastic location run by 3 Basques who had set the business up and done excellent job.

Up early the next morning I scrounged a bucket of water and rags from the kitchen and restored my bike to its normal shiny self. Then after breakfast with a BMW rider who was meeting his wife on the south coast, we set off to work our way east along the Spanish side of the Pyrenees. Avoiding the main roads where possible we discovered a different Spain to the normal Mediterranean holiday most of us are used to. No rocks and scrub but a green Spain full of forests and fields with things growing everywhere, making for great views and scenery. The highlight of the day was when the main road did a large U around a mountain region but the A-1604 took the short cut across the mountains. This is not for the faint hearted, 34 miles of mountain road with a tiny village of a few houses in the middle. If you break down here it's a long way back to civilisation. I called it the road of bends as I don't remember a straight section. The second half got a little scary where the road repairs consisted of filling the holes with gravel producing a few hairy moments of coming round a bend and finding gravel instead of road, only one bad slip but I managed to recover. We even overtook 3 riders on expensive BMW off road monsters. The road finishes at Boltana where we stopped for the night, meeting up with 2 other riders who had taken the same route.


Leaving the following morning we hit a motorway section that gave us a fast run over another area of mountains then it suddenly narrowed down to a tight gorge with single file traffic each way. This road had been cut out of the mountain and at times it arched over the road with a river running at the side. We stopped for coffee in a village at the top of a pass; the cafe/bar wall had photos of hunters with big evil looking wild boar trophies. Then looking at the bar we realised three of the drinkers were some of the hunters and this was their local. Riding on we came to Andorra and the best description was full and busy. The mountain road out into France made up for the slow crawl through the built up areas. France was even greener than Spain and we rode up and over more mountain passes until reaching Quillan where we stopped for the night.

The next day took us out of the mountains and a stop at Carcassonne with its medieval walled city. Impressive but expensive although the car park attendants did wave us on to a free parking area for Bikes. Then on to the Millau Bridge in the clouds. We arrived in the Gorge de Tarn late afternoon so found a place to stay and dumped our gear. Then we rode along the Gorge by the river until we arrived at the bridge and carried on up to the visitor centre. The bridge certainly was impressive and a video of its construction can be seen in the centre. Then back to the hotel for an evening meal with the local wine, sat in a sunny square overlooking the gorge.

Next morning we detoured out of the gorge to cross the bridge via the motorway then back down to continue along the scenic route of the Gorge de Tarn. What was supposed to be a quick detour ended up as 38 miles by the time we got off the motorway and back down into the Gorge and passed through Millau. The further East we rode the better it became with views as seen in the photo right. Then leaving the Gorge we headed towards the Alps and started climbing again into the mountains. We rode through some closed ski resorts as the road twisted itself up and over more passes. At one point it looked like in the winter you would actually be skiing down the road. After passing through another Gorge with the road tunneling through the side of the rock we stopped in Villard-de-Lans for the night.

Today we seemed to be passing through areas with unusual names. We rode very carefully through the town of Die and later it looked as if our evening stop would be interesting in the town of Pussy but being in the ski resort area it was closed for the summer period! The roads in this area were fantastic I've never done so many twists and turns, riding up and down the mountain passes. At the top of one pass I met up with a French XV1100 rider but his English was about the same as my French so it was just a thumbs up and ride on. We tried to take the route through the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc tunnel but on reaching Moutiers the pass was closed so we had to double back and reach Chamonix by another pass further west.

Chamonix was a beautiful spot; also Neal had been climbing here before and knew of a Canadian brewery/bar/restaurant in the town. So a very pleasant evening was spent there. However in conversation with the manager of our hotel for the night we were warned that bad thunderstorms were forecast for the next few days, so the Alps were not the place to be on a motorbike. Out came the maps and where should we go was the question, it turned out we both fancied a look at the Normandy D Day beach landings (almost the other side of France) so off we rode. We missed the thunderstorms but the rain certainly caught up with us and it was a miserable day riding through the centre of France.

Earlier we had been on the road of bends, now we hit the straights. Roads as straight and as far as you could see, the last time I was on roads like this was the Canadian Prairies. It wasn't as much fun but it certainly ate up the miles. Passing through a town with a supermarket we stopped and bought a picnic lunch then pulled over in a sunny lay by to eat. Compared to the day before this was what touring is all about. We rode on until reaching Fler we found a small hotel in the corner of the town square. This was run by a couple of Turks who offered pints of beer and the first UK TV since leaving Portsmouth. Only trouble was I noticed an unusual amount of ladies to men in the restaurant plus there was a lot of to and fro in the corridors during the night and the next morning a whole different group of women were around for breakfast. I was left with a feeling there was more to the hotel than we thought but I could be totally wrong and they did make us welcome.

Reaching the Normandy beaches Utah was the first stop, with museum and restored landing crafts and tanks. Looking at the wide open beach you wonder how our lads ever did it. Round to Pont-du-Hoc with its big gun emplacements and then down to Gold beach and the mulberry harbour. Everywhere they were building up for the 65th anniversary but we were 2 weeks early. I met up with another Virago rider from Swindon, he had done similar tours on his XV750 and we compared notes on how well they toured. Then after a meal of Moules Frittes (mussels & chips), we have fish & chip shops, Normandy has mussels & chip shops, we rode on and encountered difficulty in finding a bed for the night for the first time. The town of Amiens was full with no rooms, all the smaller places the hotels were closed and we had to ride on to Arras (another 80 miles) before finding a place to stay and then we had to go higher than we normally paid but it was 9:30 by this time.

Working our way up to the Ferry we stopped off at Vimy and the Canadian monument for the 1st World war trench battles. There we toured the refurbished trenches and were escorted round the tunnel system that had been restored. Times had been hard and conditions terrible for the men involved. We rode to Ypres and entered another walled city but the one way system deposited us back at the same gate so it was out to the ring road and on up to Zeebrugge and the Ferry. Another calm sea crossing depositing us in Hull about 9:30 in the morning. There we split with Neal heading home West along the M62 and me cutting across the Yorkshire wolds and home via Malton and Helmsley.